traffic rules

There is no way to easily describe the traffic here, but let me give you a taste (in fact let's use all the senses...)

First, close your eyes, then think of every type of car horn you can imagine and play them in your head all at once - this will give you a sense of the average street. so you can hear the traffic before you see it.

Second, inhale deeply (then cough) - you will smell the diesel fuel, nearby cooking, garbage and a few other things depending on how close you are to a river. Fortunately, once off the main streets, there is less rubbish and less motorbikes so the fumes are not as bad.

Third, open your eyes and look at the traffic - you might find it's now best to close your eyes again before stepping out to cross the road. Crossing a small back street is no mean feat, avoiding scooters, dogs, other pedestrians and some hand-pulled carts, but once you get to a large intersection you enter a whole new realm of "taking your life into your hands". One must boldly step into the traffic, knowing that no one will slow down, but just honk at you and go around you (quite close at times so that you can feel the wind from their narrow miss).

To cross the road is quite an ordeal, but we managed about 8 major roads on the first day with no accidents caused. Although there are usually 3 lanes in each direction, the traffic moves in about 6 different lanes, and driving on the right is really only a courtesy shown by cars. Motorbikes can go anywhere, including the footpath, such as it is.

Driving in a taxi is hardly less stressful, though the metal that buffers you from the rest of the traffic, which is now even closer than when on foot brings some comfort. You could easily reach into someone else's window and pinch their icecream if you wanted!